Saturday, July 20, 2013

Ireland and Hungary

The title covers everything—both sets of grandparents. This post is mostly about Hungary, but starts with a little of interest on the Irish side.
For a long time I saw no reason to test for mtDNA. That was because I already knew the area where my mother's mother's mother's mother was baptized, having visited the parish while in Ireland 13 years ago. But curiosity got the best of me, and so I ordered the full sequence test, which provided the details that place my branch within H1am1. But that's not all. There are two more markers, besides the H1am1 markers, on which I am a full match with several people. Those additional two markers distinguish an as yet unlabeled sub-branch, apparently confined to Ireland, with names like Sullivan and Murphy. So it's interesting to see that the full sequence mtDNA test, at least in this case, narrows things down to a relatively small geographic area.
Having failed so far to obtain a baptismal record for my Hungarian grandfather, attention turned to his Hungarian mother-in-law. Fortunately my grandmother had obtained a copy of her own baptismal certificate back in 1927. Otherwise the record might have been lost forever, because my grandmother's r.c. parish, like my grandfather's g.c. parish, is now located in present-day Ukraine. Her certificate records the birthplaces of her parents, and it shows that my great-grandmother was born in Záhony, belonging to the parish of Mándok, which is in present-day Hungary. (Záhony is just across the Tisza River from present-day Ukraine.) The records for Mándok after a first glance this week revealed no obvious entry for my great-grandmother. But I will be taking a second look, partly to enjoy seeing again the label on the title page: Mándok, Archdiocese of Eger.
My first trip to Hungary did not extend to my grandparents' birthplaces, but I did go to Eger, seat of the r.c. diocese for the region. Above is a view taken on June 2 from the castle grounds. The yellow building in the background, a little left of center, is the Cathedral of Eger. The closer church building, under restoration on the outside, is the Minorite (Franciscan) Church. It faces the white-and-gray-terraced Dobó Square. Behind the Minorite Church, extending above the church's roofline is the white, green-capped astronomical tower of the Lyceum. The 18th-century astronomical instruments on display in the Lyceum building are said to exist nowhere else in Europe except for the observatory in Greenwich.
It's been said that the Eger Castle is Hungary's Alamo, but I think a bettter analogy would be Fort McHenry. Even though Eger Castle did not inspire a Hungarian Star-Spangled Banner, there are books and poems celebrating the Stars of Eger (star having a double connotation, being a reference to the heroes who defended Eger, as well as a nod to the famous old astronomical observatory).
The guidebook recommended an overnight stay in Eger. I should have done that, instead of a day-trip from Budapest (two-hour bus ride each way). Maybe next time.